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Nick on Omaha Beach, Feb. 2014 |
Everything
went wrong on Omaha Beach on June 6, 1944.
For days, or perhaps months (unclear exactly what our guide said. Roel,
pronounced “Rule,” is Dutch living in France and he could have learned English
in Scotland, the way he expands his vowels, plus the winds was howling and we
were all keeping our mouths tight to keep from swallowing too much sand), the
allies had been bombing the coast of France to clear away all the mines and
obstacles and guns and troops the Germans had deployed there anticipating just
this attack. Or at least they thought they had been bombing the coast but
because of cloud cover, they had been bombing inland, leaving the Nazi defenses
and the medieval farms and villages in which they were hidden intact.
34,250 Americans
landed on the beach that day and the several days after. The clouds had lifted,
enough for the first ashore to see they were walking, or floating, or sinking
into a bloodbath. But the waves of men had to keep coming to make it ashore
before the tide, which would cover up the mines and booby traps, spiders made
of sharp steel that would rip tanks or boats to shreds right before the bombs
on top blew those shreds, along with arms and legs and skulls and good luck
charms and helmets and boots and blood, lots of blood, like confetti in a cold
wind.
Roel showed
us a picture of a landing craft with men packed in like rush hour on the A
train. One veteran told Roel that he stood for two days on a raft waiting for
the tide to flow right. The only time he sat was when the slipped in the vomit covering
the metal floor. When he finally got off, he jumped into the water over the opened-up
back of a guy he had grown up with in Ohio. Thousands died on or near that beach.
Bloody
Omaha, Roel kept saying, when he ran out of facts and pictures. Bloody Omaha.
In Paris,
everywhere we go, I feel like we are walking on the dead. The bodies of black plague
victims topped by street-fighting revolutionaries, then kings and priests, and
some more revolutionaries, plus all the perfectly normal casualties over
thousands of years -- old age or murder, or getting mowed down by a taxi
cab. At home, in our big and young
country, we spend far less time treading on spirits. But even Paris didn’t prepare me for Bloody
Omaha.
The beach
is so empty now, hard to see it as it was, even with Roel’s pictures, even with
the images from Saving Private Ryan still floating around in my nightmares. The
last of the veterans who survived D-Day are dying now, and all the space on
Omaha Beach says to me that the ghosts of their comrades are leaving too, dying
a second time on that damned beach, old men who never were.